Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Money Troubles


April 16, 2012

Another train journey begins: Russia, here we come!
You’re not allowed to take Mongolian tugriks out of the country. Because I had taken out too many Yuan in China, when I arrived in Mongolia I converted what I thought I’d need while I was there into tugriks, and the rest I exchanged into Russian rubles. Yesterday there was a bit of a mad rush in our group to exchange money and I was feeling pretty good about having avoided that stress as I already taken care of it three days earlier.

The gang's ready for another night!
So you could imagine my surprise this morning on the train when I opened my money belt to finally take out the rubles I would need for lunch and found notes with pictures of Genghis Kahn on them. If I’m honest, my first thought was that I didn’t know Russia had a leader that looked so similar to the Khan. And then I realized what I had done. Yes, I had tucked away my “Russian money” without making sure it was indeed Russian money, and now, instead of having $200 worth of Russian rubles, I had $200 worth of Mongolian tugriks. Not only was this inconvenient, it was technically illegal.

Fortunately, we had already gone through customs on each side of the border this morning so I wasn’t really worried about getting caught with the money. (There was a woman on the train this morning who did have a little run-in with the customs officials. She had boarded in Mongolia with cases of alcohol and jeans that she was trying to hide in other people’s cabins and other random places around the train (like the garbage can?). Those of us in my cabin thought she had gotten away with it, but according to our neighbors closer to the smuggler’s room, it turns out the giant suitcases that came onto the train with her full last night were pretty much empty by the time the officials finished their search this morning.) Everyone in our compartment had to open our suitcases for the Russian officials to inspect and photograph (yes, photograph), but as we weren’t trying to smuggle anything in, that was the extent of our interaction with them.
Looking fantastic in our pj's!
Into Russia!

Morning pit stop
 
Anyway, when I explained my money exchange folly to our guide he said he’d help me try to find a place to exchange the money while we were stopped at the border town. I felt a little sketchy as we met with a Mongolian train attendant who said she could probably help us out. She sat in silence on a bench at the station with two of her friends while my guide, another traveler in the group, and I stood, also in silence, in front of them acting nonchalant. Breaking the silence with a minimal exchange, our guide learned that they actually didn’t have enough money to exchange mine so they stood and walked away. We waited a few moments and then also left the bench.

It was then pointed out that the other train in the station was actually headed into Mongolia and that perhaps I could explain my situation to some of those passengers and they might be willing to do a little informal exchange with me. It took approaching three different groups of travelers, but after giving my sob story those three times I managed to get all my money exchanged. Two of the three groups of travelers were happy to help me as much as they could—they just didn’t have enough dollars or rubles to exchange it all. The middle group I addressed was a little more skeptical about exchanging their money with me in this fashion, but one at least one guy was willing. (To be fair, I was on the other side of the situation a few weeks ago in Thailand and I get being a little skeptical. In the end, I had found a happy medium between exchanging enough money for the guy in need to get where he wanted  to go and not changing so much that I would be devastated if there was a problem with his money. Fortunately, there wasn’t, and I suppose maybe it was karma helping me out today.)

Hello, Russia!
 Our train arrives at the station in about 30 minutes. After traveling for a good 26 hours in a rather hot train (We’re traveling through Mongolia and Siberia!), I’m ready to have a shower and good night’s sleep at a hotel. Ulan Ude, here I come!

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